Come autumn and the familiar sounds, smells and tastes of Durgotsab beckon you from all over. Durga Puja, among other things, celebrates the victory of good over evil, signifying the purge of the buffalo-demon Mahishasura from the earth by Goddess Durga. Records exist of Durga Puja being celebrated as far back as the 16th century, but it was only in the 18th century that the wealthy zamindars of Bengal conducted the puja (prayer rituals) in an elaborate style at their residence.

The first of this kind was held in Kolkata in honour of Lord Clive, to pay thanks for his victory in the Battle of Plassey. What started out as a culture of the princely houses during the Raj gained popularity with the common people and soon set the trend for the sarbojanin (public) puja. Elaborate pandals (marquees of bamboo and cloth) are constructed. In Kolkata itself over two thousand pandals are built every year, all demanding attention and excited puja lovers gleefully go panda/-hopping all over the city.

In modern times, Durga Puja has become more than a Hindu religious festival. People from various ethnicities visit the puja pandals.
It is also the largest outdoor art exhibition with artists displaying their genius and vying for attention, which they get in abundance.

Worshippers begin their day by offering prayers to goddess Durga on all five days of the puja: Sashthi, Maha Saptami, Mahashtami, Maha Nabami and Bijoya Dashami. The actual puja performed by the priest in the morning is accompanied with ritual music characterised by the dhakis (drummers).

An integral part of the puja is the dhunuchi dance. As the sun sets, the dhunuchi dance is performed in front of Goddess Durga, after the evening oarati (prayers). Dhunuchi is an earthen pot, which contains burning coconut shells.


The dancers balance it on their palms, forehead or between their teeth. On the last day-Bijoya Dashami-the idols are immersed in water, marking the return of Goddess Durga to her husband Lord Shiva.