Come the full-moon day in the month of Falguna, coinciding with March-April, and India celebrates Holi. Most Indians, and through them the
world, know Holi as 'the festival of colours'. However, Holi was first the festival of spring, that celebrated fertility and harvest. Today, this aspect of Holi is still celebrated all over the country, albeit with interpretations and twists thrown in by every state and region. Here, we bring you a sampling of each region's take on this celebration of rejuvenation, with a version of Holi from the North, East, West and the South. For good measure, there's also one from MP, the heart of India.
HOLA MOHALLA (PUNJAB)
With shining swords, long spears, conical turbans and twirled-up moustaches, Nihangs gallop past on frothing horses, raising clouds of dust, as they celebrate Hola Mohalla in Punjab every March. Coinciding with Holi, Hola Mohalla reminds people about the tradition of meaningful festivity, and displays the valour inculcated in the Sikh community by Guru Gobind Singh, who took to armed struggle against tyranny.
The foothills of the Shivaliks in Ropar district of Punjab's northeastern region, especially around the historic townships of Anandpur Sahib and Kiratpur Sahib, have, since 1701, been playing host to Hola Mohalla. Recently, the Indian government accorded it the status of a national festival. Guru Gobind Singh rechristened the Holi festival by the end of the 17th century as Hola Mohalla, to use the opportunity to train his forces in the art of warfare. Near the fort of Holgarh in Anandpur Sahib, the headquarters of Guru Gobind Singh, the Nihangs, as the Sikh warriors were called, divided into two groups and engaged in mock battle.
The military exercise, which was personally supervised by the guru, was carried out on the bed of the Charan Ganga river, with the famous Hindu temple of Mata Naina Devi in the Shivaliks as the backdrop. A mohalla (procession) to symbolise liberty, freedom, bravery and wisdom was made part of the celebration. Once known as the Guru di ladli fauj (the Guru's beloved army) the Nihangs are the main attraction of the present-day Hola Mohalla celebration. Hola Mohalla is an occasion for them to display their preparedness for war and exhibit their skills in martial arts.
The third day of the Hola Mohalla belongs to the Nihangs, who begin their preparations early in the morning with a bath and prayers. The various activities of the Nihangs, especially of the Budha (older) Dal faction, draw large crowds.
People, including women, are seen in large numbers around the place where the Nihangs prepare phenomenal quantities of a concoction of cannabis, milk, almonds, sugar and other nuts, to be served as Prasad throughout the day. By noon, theNihangs perform the bhog ceremony of recitation of the Guru Granth Sahib. Before the procession, lambs are sacrificed. The meat is served in the evening as Maha Prasad.
The Nihangs sport their newly stitched Choga (traditional robes and Shastar(weapons).
They pay special attention to the Pharhara or Dumala (their unique conical turbans)which help one to spot the Nihangs from a distance. These turbans are decorated with steel rings and circular symbols. Dressed in new saffron or deep blue robe, the Nihangs move in procession led by horsemen beating nagaras(drums). Armed with their traditional weapons, they pay obeisance at the historic Gurwara Takht Keshgarh Sahib and proceed towards Gurdwara Guru ki Lahore, from where they eargerly rush to the beds of Charan Ganga, to perform feats of daring.
