Kovalam was a small, sleepy village, lying in humble obscurity along the picturesque Malabar Coast. Then around 1930, the quiet little village was shaken of its lethargic slumber and thrust onto the internal tourist map: The merchants of holiday dreams along the sea had discovered the fabulous silver sands and palm fringed shores of Kovalam. From then on there was no looking back. Today Kovalam is reckoned as the most trendy beach retreat in India. In Malayalam, Kovalam means a grove of coconut trees.
This picturesque coastal village lies between two palm fringed coves and is enclosed by rocky headlands. It is a little over 16 km from Thiruvananthapuram, its nearest large city. Kovalam's endless blue waters, long stretches of white sands and thick groves of palm trees have combined to transform it into an Edenic fantasy. Travellers who seek the dark, richly ornamented interiors of temples and churches. Places where the air is heavy with musk and incense, and one's chest heaves with luscious pain. Kerala Tourism Department's VIP Guest House, in Kovalam. The guesthouse is strategically located on a promontory. Rooms are large and clean.
A door open in a wall to wall glass partition, and step on to a generous balcony. Beyond that is a sweeping view of Kovalam's sheltered bay and the popular Lighthouse Beach. Examine the extraordinary handicraft of wood, coir, coconut shell and sandalwood. particularly enamoured of the hand carved, wooden Kathakali masks and snake boats. They make arresting showpieces for the sitting room, and ideal gifts for friends. There are several tiny beachside restaurants serving appetizing seafood, straight off the fire. The alternatives spread are lobsters, scar fishes, sardines, prawns and red snappers. KOVALAM consists of Three Adjoining, Crescent Shaped Beaches.

THE SOUTHERN LIGHTHOUSE BEACH
is the most popular, but is also the most crowded. At one end of this beach is a picture postcard lighthouse perched on the tip of a high, craggy ridge. Moving to the south end of the beach, get a stunning view of the Vizhinjam mosque. The polarising filter on my camera helps the understated pink of the dome and graceful minarets stand out in sharp contrast against the deep azure of the sky. The mosques in Kerala are so much more tastefully painted than the ones in the northern parts of our country.

VIZHINJAM
which is about two kilometres south of Kovalam. It is a small but very busy Fishing Port. I discover that it is an important base for an ongoing pioneer project, aimed at generating electricity from wave energy. The beach is teeming with fisher folk and their boats.
The frenetic fever of activity on this sea face is infectious. Clad in colourful lungies, the fishermen propel their large boats forward on logs of wood up to the wave point. Then, as the boats hit the water, the fishermen, running alongside, jump into the swiftly moving crafts in a remarkable display of celerity and co-ordination. In Hawah the local fisher folk use it as an alternate venue for venturing out to sea. Early every morning, they leave the shore with songs on their lips, and eyes gleaming with hope and trust in the bounty of the sea gods.

THE NORTHERN BEACH, CALLED THE SAMUDRA
is strangely unchanged by the passage of time. It is deserted, and there is a conspicuous absence of vendors and shops. Possibly, it looks exactly as it did in 1498, when Vasco da Gama landed on the shores of the Malabar. The evening matures into night and the ambience of the Lighthouse Beach undergoes an incredible metamorphosis. The place now comes alive to a different rhythm. It is the spell woven by the Kathakali or Mohiniyattom dancers.
The dancers move with stylised, graceful steps in time to the soul stirring pulse of Carnatic music.

HOW TO GET THERE
BY ROAD: Kovalam can be reached by direct and regular bus and taxi services from Thiruvananthapuram, the nearest city, which is also the junction of four National Highways numbers 7, 17, 45 and 47. The Kerala Road Transport Corporation and private bus services provide transportation to just about anywhere in Kerala.
BY RAIL: Connections from all major cities in India to Thiruvananthapuram.
BY AIR: Thiruvananthapuram is the nearest airport connecting Kovalam to other places in India.

LOCAL TRANSPORT:
The city has a well-developed internal transport system. Taxis, auto rickshaws and the state and private bus services are available all over the city, for local use and longer excursions.

WHERE TO STAY
There are many places to stay ranging from cheap concrete boxes to posh resorts. The ITDC Ashoka Hotel and the KTDC Samudra Hotel provide five-star accommodation. The KTDC's VIP Guest House (next door to the Samudra) offers very good accommodation and an incredible view of the beach and the Arabian Sea.

GENERAL INFORMATION
Kovalam is rapidly developing not only as a superb beach resort but also as a Yoga and health centre. Ayurvedic massages and oil baths are available on demand. Tourists can learn the dynamics of Yoga and meditation, under the supervision and guidance of experts.

BEST SEASON TO VISIT
September to May

TEMPERATURE RANGE
22.5 deg C to 35 deg C CLOTHING Light cottons

LANGUAGES
Malayalam, English, and limited Hindi